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Iand
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Mower And Equipment Modifications
#21

Note Victa have a snorkel kit for Honda GCV/GSV engines which i think also suits the old style Briggs engines these are a filter holder,hose and a cover that replaces the existing one every easy to do  and Rover have one to suit Kohler again very easy to fit and in my opinion well worth the money


Posted 21 March 2016 - 09:16 PM

Anything Ian says may or may not be garbage, it may also be his own opinion or it may not be his opinion at all, it may just be something he felt like stating anyone following his advice does so at their own risk and may be doing something Ian would actually advise against smile.png


SPUDwa
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#22

hey Arfa with your experience doing the mods , are there any mods that can be done to a Honda Bushranger 163cc engine GXV160


Posted 09 October 2016 - 10:01 PM

Arfa Brayne
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#23

hey Arfa with your experience doing the mods , are there any mods that can be done to a Honda Bushranger 163cc engine GXV160

Fiddled around with the GXV160 years ago.

Took about 40thou (1mm) off the head to increase compression and smoothed out/matched the ports.

Put a few more holes in the ####ler baffle and tweaked the air inlet to come off the back of the cowl through a victa tube air filter (like the air "injection" system in a chainsaw) Opened out the main jet with a oxy tip cleaner.

Seemed to have more power in the top end, but dropped low end torque slightly.


Posted 10 October 2016 - 05:05 PM

"Can't" is a dirty 4 letter word.
If someone says "Can't" , take the "T" off the end and brew in boiling water.
Sip on your 'T, relax, and take a look at what you've got left to work with.


scorpNZ
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#24

Disclaimer : Haven't bothered to search nor do i care to find out if anyone else has done the following.These are as far as i'm concerned except one are my own idea,since i was purposely looking for another way,especially the blades.

 

If you have the two blade disc.Put it back on & use rover 22" blades with masport bolts (hex head) & nuts & no tension washer (using domed bolts makes it hard to remove when it's worn down,can't grip edge in vice,including when the disc holes are worn & bolt spins,hex bolts solves that nonsense).What this achieves is .The blades are 3mm thick & last bloody ages.They withstand hitting bits of solid steel & anything else you feel inclined to wack that's solid.The flute is quite high so cutting & flinging wet grass into the catcher is not an issue & that grass can be shin high & your mowing lowish while it's raining.You can mulch with these also.

How i got onto this was through a custom made 24" mower i have that has similar blades except they have a longer drop down & i always wanted to put them on my honda , however they sat way too low.I then had a 560 rover,that's when i realized they had the blades i was after & that was real contracting blades.

 

You lot are going to like this one.

Pneumatic wheels on the rear of a 21" sp honda.Split rim type,i assume it was because that was the only rim small enough in height..The downside. I know who did the mod but can't find him.However i never forgot it.The tyre did sit a little higher than the original wheel but not enough to be a concern.The closest i got was using bike tyre attached to the original wheels to get more speed from the 2 speed honda at the time.I assume some turning perhaps a bit added to get the dog inside,the steel rim was required.

 

Dump that dam spring on the clutch bar or whatever you call it (can't be arsed looking at the parts listing of it's actual name) .Instead use a length of high tensile wire.If the wire is strong enough you won't need to twist the two ends together,instead just fold over so they face each other & come past a bit say 20mm (don't matter whatever mm or inches past). Crushing the sides so they come closer together is advised.

Alternatively : Kids here have those brass rings (about four of them) that are on a joined circle of round steel wire,i think that's what i'm using ??.It's around 2.5-3mm thick..You can use galv mild steel wire if that's all you have & twist the ends together so it doesn't come off..De-adjusting of the cable all the way is required,so you can tension it up as there will be some stretch etc..say goodbye to breaking springs as the wire will last quite a while & should be over a year if it's strong..No matter. You now have an option if a spring breaks & no spare

 

Weedeater with 4" solid ally disc:

Got ####ed off with my disc wearing on the ground & got tired of holding my brush cutter up .

Solution : weld a piece of steel solid or not,a decent sized nut or not to the bolt.

Make the added steel extend about an inch out from the disc face.Up to you if you want to grind it to give it a bit of rounding.It won't matter it will happen naturally as it wears (grinding or having a flat on the side of the added steel will be required to allow removal)

Why you ask ? why indeed ! i say..It will be a bit freaky at first,until enough wear has occurred as it will grab cracks n' such like,so be careful not to go to fast & be ready (you'll know once you try it what i'm talking about hahaha).However once it's all broken in,you can now place the weedeater head directly onto the ground without fear & watch how fast you can trim those pesky edges,without taking the wind out yourself..lol....You can now concentrate on weed eating,including angling..meh ! just try it you'll get the idea of why i like this

 

Edit: forgot to mention about the weedeater head bolt mod.It makes it easier to tie the nylon around the protrusion instead of an actual knot on the nylon itself when tied without the mod.This means loosening up the nylon is easier so you can continue weedeating without attempting to undo a dam welded piece of plastic & you will be able to slip the know down a bit more,to use as much of the nylon as poss.No i don't waste my time threading the stuff through the provided retaining holes,besides i assume like you i use as large as possible nylon so it won't fit anyway,besides knots are faster to get going again

 

Oh yeah ! when using a new ally head.Don't put it on straight away,you lot already know about the nylon breaking off yes ?

Solution:

A drill is required

A carbide ball thingy that's on a short or long shank

Files preferably bendable & round

File std round

 

Using the drill & carbide tool.Grind a little ways head on into the inside orifices.You should now have a concave type look,there should be a grind mark on the base of the disc,you may need this to help get the nylon in later,i do due to a washer i need that's used as a spacer under my bolt & it's a wide washer.

 

Using the files,round the edges & smooth over,i can't describe here at to what point you can stop smoothing you'll have to judge for yourself

 

Do the same with the files to the outer lips,where nylon protrudes

 

This alteration takes the sharp corners away & you will no longer suffer breaking nylon or shouldn't do

 

Edit 2 :Honda handles breaking..This is those that are the old style like on the 2 speed

 

For the lower handle attached to the base..Place victa handle retaining clamps on either side & tighten up the nut.Place two stainless hose clamps either side of the nut on both sides & tighten

 

Upper handle to lower handle join : here i only use ss hose clamps on either side of the nuts on both sides,however you can if you like use victa retaining clamps here as well

 

Honda catcher wear in the corners at the ends.This is a bug bear of mine & ####es me off when they tear away,since have you guy's tried sewing it back together,dam that crap is hard to push a needle through..Anyway there comes a point it's close to replacement,you can get a bit more life by removing the bag & use an onion sack.Place sack over the steel all the way,then fold the front edge of the sack back,so now it's half way on itself.Place the catcher back on.It's a temporary fix for a holy catcher


Posted 17 March 2018 - 11:10 AM

plucka
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#25

any issues with engine running rich when using a snorkel?


Posted 27 March 2018 - 06:37 AM

CGAHS
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#26

good question Plucka - been toying with the snorkel idea for my mulchmaster with  the briggs 850......


Posted 27 March 2018 - 07:51 AM

drewebb
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#27

Dont know about running rich but filter changes are few and far between.


Posted 27 March 2018 - 07:52 AM

scorpNZ
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#28

That's an odd question,why would you think using a snorkel would richen the mixture ? unless you thought there were two filters,which isn't the case.

I would advise having a pre-filter it can be any open cell foam,even fish tank foam matting 10mm is ok just to collect the worst of the dust if any gets in there.Obviously the finer the cells the better to block dust.I use it in all my mowers inc the ride-on,if your wondering if it works,yes it does or i wouldn't bother,tho originally i had much finer cell foam,but can't seem to get it.

 

Can someone put up a link to the kit your talking about,i'm familiar with the older side valve type (non ohv) & the victa 2 stroke,as well as the snorkel that has the remote filter (uses the long victa cylinder type filter at the handl,however it's for briggs motors,both the older classics range & quantum ic)


Edited by scorpNZ, 27 March 2018 - 10:58 AM.

Posted 27 March 2018 - 10:46 AM

crocster
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#29

any issues with engine running rich when using a snorkel?

I've got a snorkel on the HRX - in the drought I ran the victa long filter up top and the standard Honda folded paper filter   down on the motor (I removed the foam prefilter I ran when I didn't have the snorkel) - there was just so much dust flying around I think it was essential - but very important to clean it (the victa filter) daily and I used to chuck them every week or two - amazing the amount of dust they picked up - but meanwhile the honda filter was almost un contaminated - just used to tap it out every week or so 

 

can't say I noticed any change in engine performance, fuel consumption, spark plug colour when running two (clean) paper filters - and definitely easier than cleaning the foam elements daily and carrying spares on the ute to swap out on bad days

 

but now that everything here is soaked and there's no dust I've removed the victa element as there's no need for it. 


Posted 27 March 2018 - 11:04 AM

scorpNZ
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#30

You could save a bit of money on air filters if you use the 2 stroke suzuki filter (forgot about that,assuming you can still get them,i think they were on sp 20" rovers ?) either up top (cut it so it fits or cut it in segements to pack it in) or down on the motor,as you oil it up like the old 3.5hp briggs filters.It also has super fine cells & the foam block is very thick.That oil in the foam will act as an oil bath & pretty much catch everything or should do.Then it's a matter of washing it,no need to replace filters


Posted 27 March 2018 - 01:43 PM

ABCDEFG
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#31

Disclaimer : Haven't bothered to search nor do i care to find out if anyone else has done the following.These are as far as i'm concerned except one are my own idea,since i was purposely looking for another way,especially the blades.
 
If you have the two blade disc.Put it back on & use rover 22" blades with masport bolts (hex head) & nuts & no tension washer (using domed bolts makes it hard to remove when it's worn down,can't grip edge in vice,including when the disc holes are worn & bolt spins,hex bolts solves that nonsense).What this achieves is .The blades are 3mm thick & last bloody ages.They withstand hitting bits of solid steel & anything else you feel inclined to wack that's solid.The flute is quite high so cutting & flinging wet grass into the catcher is not an issue & that grass can be shin high & your mowing lowish while it's raining.You can mulch with these also.
How i got onto this was through a custom made 24" mower i have that has similar blades except they have a longer drop down & i always wanted to put them on my honda , however they sat way too low.I then had a 560 rover,that's when i realized they had the blades i was after & that was real contracting blades.
 
You lot are going to like this one.
Pneumatic wheels on the rear of a 21" sp honda.Split rim type,i assume it was because that was the only rim small enough in height..The downside. I know who did the mod but can't find him.However i never forgot it.The tyre did sit a little higher than the original wheel but not enough to be a concern.The closest i got was using bike tyre attached to the original wheels to get more speed from the 2 speed honda at the time.I assume some turning perhaps a bit added to get the dog inside,the steel rim was required.
 
Dump that dam spring on the clutch bar or whatever you call it (can't be arsed looking at the parts listing of it's actual name) .Instead use a length of high tensile wire.If the wire is strong enough you won't need to twist the two ends together,instead just fold over so they face each other & come past a bit say 20mm (don't matter whatever mm or inches past). Crushing the sides so they come closer together is advised.
Alternatively : Kids here have those brass rings (about four of them) that are on a joined circle of round steel wire,i think that's what i'm using ??.It's around 2.5-3mm thick..You can use galv mild steel wire if that's all you have & twist the ends together so it doesn't come off..De-adjusting of the cable all the way is required,so you can tension it up as there will be some stretch etc..say goodbye to breaking springs as the wire will last quite a while & should be over a year if it's strong..No matter. You now have an option if a spring breaks & no spare
 
Weedeater with 4" solid ally disc:
Got ####ed off with my disc wearing on the ground & got tired of holding my brush cutter up .
Solution : weld a piece of steel solid or not,a decent sized nut or not to the bolt.
Make the added steel extend about an inch out from the disc face.Up to you if you want to grind it to give it a bit of rounding.It won't matter it will happen naturally as it wears (grinding or having a flat on the side of the added steel will be required to allow removal)
Why you ask ? why indeed ! i say..It will be a bit freaky at first,until enough wear has occurred as it will grab cracks n' such like,so be careful not to go to fast & be ready (you'll know once you try it what i'm talking about hahaha).However once it's all broken in,you can now place the weedeater head directly onto the ground without fear & watch how fast you can trim those pesky edges,without taking the wind out yourself..lol....You can now concentrate on weed eating,including angling..meh ! just try it you'll get the idea of why i like this
 
Edit: forgot to mention about the weedeater head bolt mod.It makes it easier to tie the nylon around the protrusion instead of an actual knot on the nylon itself when tied without the mod.This means loosening up the nylon is easier so you can continue weedeating without attempting to undo a dam welded piece of plastic & you will be able to slip the know down a bit more,to use as much of the nylon as poss.No i don't waste my time threading the stuff through the provided retaining holes,besides i assume like you i use as large as possible nylon so it won't fit anyway,besides knots are faster to get going again
 
Oh yeah ! when using a new ally head.Don't put it on straight away,you lot already know about the nylon breaking off yes ?
Solution:
A drill is required
A carbide ball thingy that's on a short or long shank
Files preferably bendable & round
File std round
 
Using the drill & carbide tool.Grind a little ways head on into the inside orifices.You should now have a concave type look,there should be a grind mark on the base of the disc,you may need this to help get the nylon in later,i do due to a washer i need that's used as a spacer under my bolt & it's a wide washer.
 
Using the files,round the edges & smooth over,i can't describe here at to what point you can stop smoothing you'll have to judge for yourself
 
Do the same with the files to the outer lips,where nylon protrudes
 
This alteration takes the sharp corners away & you will no longer suffer breaking nylon or shouldn't do
 
Edit 2 :Honda handles breaking..This is those that are the old style like on the 2 speed
 
For the lower handle attached to the base..Place victa handle retaining clamps on either side & tighten up the nut.Place two stainless hose clamps either side of the nut on both sides & tighten
 
Upper handle to lower handle join : here i only use ss hose clamps on either side of the nuts on both sides,however you can if you like use victa retaining clamps here as well
 
Honda catcher wear in the corners at the ends.This is a bug bear of mine & ####es me off when they tear away,since have you guy's tried sewing it back together,dam that crap is hard to push a needle through..Anyway there comes a point it's close to replacement,you can get a bit more life by removing the bag & use an onion sack.Place sack over the steel all the way,then fold the front edge of the sack back,so now it's half way on itself.Place the catcher back on.It's a temporary fix for a holy catcher


Can you share any for info about the 24 inch mower? I think this is the perfect size for replacing a 21. The closest thing I can find is a ybravo 25.
Posted 04 November 2018 - 05:38 PM

AndoTheMando
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Mower And Equipment Modifications
#32

I love these Mod threads... I need to lower the blade on my E-Go with a similar spacer ...

Arfa is a trail Blazer...Kudos


Posted 04 November 2018 - 08:45 PM

B.L.T.H ....Brake late, Turn hard


scorpNZ
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#33

No the 24" isn't made anymore & is like a deutscher frame wise & if it was still being made you'd be looking at around $4500

 

If you do get the 25" add a grease nipple to the spindle housing if there's not one there already. Remove the inner seals of the bearings.Add a little grease to the bearing races being careful not to get grease on the outside of them.Add grease to the spindle housing & don't get grease on the bearing seats of the housing it must be clean & dry.Before putting bearings back use a bearing lock so bearing & housing get glued together.Ally housings are a pain for flogging out this should alleviate it some what.You'll need to be careful with the spindle shaft in that machine since it's hardened & would require heating it up to straighten again.Better to get a disc or custom made unit like my 24" & use thick flails


Posted 05 November 2018 - 03:08 AM

plucka
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#34

Regards trimmer heads wearing out, I ended up using areldite to glue the largest washer I could find onto the bottom of the head. Now the washer wears away instead of the plastic and a lot slower.
Posted 05 November 2018 - 02:44 PM

spongy buffalo
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#35

Regards trimmer heads wearing out, I ended up using areldite to glue the largest washer I could find onto the bottom of the head. Now the washer wears away instead of the plastic and a lot slower.

Does that washer cost more than 50c?
That’s what I did to buy a bit more time to get a new one a few weeks ago.
Posted 05 November 2018 - 04:01 PM

AndoTheMando
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#36

Regards trimmer heads wearing out, I ended up using areldite to glue the largest washer I could find onto the bottom of the head. Now the washer wears away instead of the plastic and a lot slower.

I'm going to do this


Posted 05 November 2018 - 08:21 PM

B.L.T.H ....Brake late, Turn hard


Fred
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#37

Does that washer cost more than 50c?
That’s what I did to buy a bit more time to get a new one a few weeks ago.

So, you're saying at that stage, u might as well just areldite the 50c piece to it ?... lol.


Posted 05 November 2018 - 09:17 PM

drewebb
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#38

Regards trimmer heads wearing out, I ended up using areldite to glue the largest washer I could find onto the bottom of the head. Now the washer wears away instead of the plastic and a lot slower.

Took Honda (and others) years to work that out.


Posted 06 November 2018 - 05:13 PM

spongy buffalo
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#39

So, you're saying at that stage, u might as well just areldite the 50c piece to it ?... lol.


Well if I had time to get a fnbig washer I would’ve had time to get a new bumpfeed. So 50c it was
Posted 06 November 2018 - 06:38 PM




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